You'll come to Gakushinshita Station of the Arakawa Line. Cross the tracks here. Now you have a choice: you can either keep going a few meters ahead to the Kanda River (just magnificent in April when the cherry blooms) and turn to the right to walk along the river, or you can take the trolley here two stops to the end of the line, a short trip which will cost you 160 yen. Most people find the trolley hard to resist. Waseda, the name of Tokyo's liveliest university, is also the name of the last station. Across the street and on your left you'll see Ichinose... ...a totally down-home hole-in-the-wall (antique TV in the corner, a plate of undistinguished yakisoba for 400 yen), where for 500 yen you can buy a bottle of the locally brewed Waseda Beer, hardly seen outside the neighborhood.