Here are a few tips for storing your fresh herbs through next winter.
Make sure you plant enough to do so!
Herbs can be dried in the oven, microwave, dehydrator,
flower press, or by hanging.
Herbs can also be frozen for later use.
For all methods, harvest your herbs in the morning, after the dew has dried on the leaves, or in the early evening. The highest concentration of flavor in the herbs usually occurs just before they flower. That is the best time to harvest them for drying. To gather seeds (such as caraway, fennel, dill, sesame, etc) you can see the seed forming as the seed heads fade. Watch as the seeds turn green and pick the stalks just as the seeds start to turn brown. Waiting too long will cause them to fall off as they dry. Hang stalks upside down inside a brown paper bag, which is tied shut with the seed heads inside. The seeds will fall into the bag.
Oven Drying:
Set your oven at its lowest temperature.
Arrange your herbs in a single layer on a wire rack
that you have lined with cheesecloth.
Place in the oven and leave the door open a bit.
Turn the herbs every 1/2-hour until they are dry and crumbly.
Microwave Drying:
Place 1/2 to 1 cup of herbs between layers of microwave-safe paper towels. Microwave on high power for 2 to 3 minutes, checking often to make sure they are not scorching. Microwave in additional 15-second intervals, if necessary, until leaves are brittle and pull from stem easily.
Air Drying:
Cut sprigs several inches in length then strip the bottom leaves to expose a few inches of bare stems. Gather into small, loose bunches---you want to leave room around the leaves for air to circulate.
Tie stems together very tightly, as stems will shrink as they dry. Use string or rubber bands. Hang the bunch upside down in a warm, dry place, with circulation, and out of direct sunlight. It may take up to 2 weeks for herbs to dry, depending on humidity. Leaves will be brittle and crumbly when completely dried. Drying herbs slowly will help them to retain their color, and also the volatile oils contained in the herbs that give them each its unique flavor and aroma. The ideal temperature for air drying herbs is 100 degrees. A well-ventilated attic is an ideal place to dry herbs. In cooler temperatures, the herbs will take more time to dry.
Herbs can also be air-dried on screens, which is a good method for drying herbs that have stems too short to be gathered into a bunch, or for loose leaves. Turn leaves frequently to insure thorough, even drying of the herbs.
Dehydrator Drying:
Place herbs in a single layer on an herb screen in the dehydrator. (I used vinyl window screening cut to fit into the dehydrator trays...much cheaper than buying herb screens!) Leave in the dehydrator, rotating trays if necessary, until leaves pull off stems easily and are brittle.
Flower-press Drying:
This method takes up less space than air-drying by hanging or on a screen. You can use a purchased flower-press, or make your own by using a stack of heavy books. Arrange the herbs in a singe layer between sheets of paper towel. Place several thickness’ of newspaper between the layers (for example: newspaper-paper towel-herbs-paper towel-newspaper-paper towel-herbs-paper towel-newspaper, etc.)
Pressed herbs will take longer to dry--up to 6 weeks, maybe longer. They will not need to be checked or turned as often. They also will dry flat rather than retaining their natural shape. When dry, crumble leaves into an airtight container for storage.
Storing Dried Herbs:
When completely dried, remove leaves from the stems.
The herbs can then be stored in airtight containers, such as jars. Store in a cool, dark, dry place for up to one year.
Hint: Be sure to store in containers as soon as possible after drying.... I tried drying some basil in the dehydrator and turned it off when the leaves were dried, but didn't package them up right away. It was a humid summer day, and the leaves quickly absorbed moisture from the air and I had to re-dry them!
If stored before completely dried, they will mold.
Freezing Herbs:
Freezing preserves more of the fresh flavor of herbs than drying.
The disadvantage is that you have your freezer full of green ice cubes!
Basil, tarragon, sage and mint can be frozen by removing leaves from the stems; more delicate herbs can be dried in sprigs;
chives can be cut into 1/2" pieces.
Except for basil, dill and chives, blanch the leaves or stems of the herbs
by placing them in a colander
and pouring boiling water over them for 1 second.
Spread out on paper towels to dry.
When dry, place in a single layer on a baking sheet,
freeze for several hours. Quickly place in ziploc bags and seal.
Do not refreeze herbs once they are thawed.
Another way herbs can be frozen is to chop the leaves and place 1 T. into ice cube tray sections. Spoon 1 T. water over the herbs and freeze. Then store the cubes in an airtight container in the freezer. Then take out as many cubes as needed.
Note: If using fresh herbs in place of dried herbs, double the measurement. Only use fresh herbs if the mixture will be used immediately...if making a mixture that is to be stored, use only herbs that are completely dried.
Hanging Herbs to Dry
Hanging herbs to dry at room temperature is the easiest and least expensive way how to dry herbs. Remove the lower leaves and bundle 4-6 branches together, securing with string or a rubber band. Place them upside down in a brown paper bag, with stems protruding and tie closed. Punch small holes along the top for air circulation. Hang the bag in a warm, dark, area for about 2 to 4 weeks, checking periodically until the herbs are dry.
This process works best with low moisture herbs (dill, marjoram, rosemary, summer savory, and thyme). Herbs with high moisture content (basil, oregano, tarragon, lemon balm, and mint) will mold if not dried quickly. Therefore, if you are going to air dry these types of herbs, make certain the bundles are small and in a well-ventilated area.
How to Dry Herbs Using Other Methods
Tray drying herbs is another method. This can be done by stacking trays on one another and placing in a warm, dark place until the herbs are dry. Likewise, you can remove leaves from the stems and lay them on a paper towel. Cover with another paper towel and continue layering as needed. Dry in a cool oven overnight, using only the oven light.
Drying herbs in silica sand should not be used for edible herbs. This method of drying herbs is best suited for craft purposes. Place a layer of silica sand in the bottom of an old shoebox, arrange herbs on top, and cover them with more silica sand. Place the shoebox in a warm room for about 2-4 weeks until the herbs are thoroughly dry.
Once herbs are dry, store them in airtight containers that are labeled and dated, as they are best used within a year. Place them in a cool, dry place away from sunlight.
Whether you decided to try oven drying herbs, hanging herbs to dry, drying herbs in a microwave or dry herbs using an electric dehydrator, taking the time to do this will help save the flavor of summer for the winter months.
How to Take Care of Container Herbs During Cold Weather:
Many people these days are opting to grow herbs in containers rather than in the ground. The reasons can range from lack of space to being an apartment dweller to just liking the convenience of a container garden.
Most people know that herbs will do quite nicely in containers throughout the summer months, but when cold weather comes, they are unsure of how to take care of their container grown herbs.
When the weather starts to get cold, the first thing to decide is whether you will be keeping your herbs inside or outside. This decision is not an easy one due to the fact that either choice holds both pros and cons.
If you decide to leave them outside, they will be at risk to be killed by the cold and wet. You will need to take certain steps to ensure that your herbs are well protected and able to survive the weather. But, if proper steps are taken, a container grown herb plant will be just fine.
Next thing you need to consider is if your herbs are able to survive outside in your particular zone. Normally, your herb plant will only survive being left outside if it is suitable for zones at least one lower than your own. For example, if you have a rosemary and you live in zone 6, then you probably don’t want to leave it outside as rosemaries are only perennial to zone 6. But in you live in a zone 6 and you want to leave your parsley outside, you should be fine as parsley survives to zone 5.
Next, you will want to make sure you store your container herbs in a sheltered place. Up against a wall or tucked in a corner is an excellent place to store them. The walls will retain some heat from the winter sun and will increase the temperature some during the cold nights. Even a few degrees can make a huge difference to stored plants.
You also want to make sure that your container herbs have excellent drainage where ever you store them. Many times it is not the cold that kills a container plant but a combination of cold and wet. Well drained soil will act like an insulator for your plants. Wet soil will act like an ice cube and will freeze (and kill) your plant. That being said, do not put your herb containers somewhere that will not get some precipitation. Plants don’t need much water during the winter months, but they do need some.
If possible, add some kind of insulating material around your pots. Covering them with a pile of fallen leaves, mulch or some other material will help to keep them warm.
If you find that you have plants that will not survive outside and you do not wish to bring them inside, you may want to consider taking cuttings. You can root these during the winter and by spring they will be healthy plants ready for you to grow them.
Keeping your container grown herbs outside may be a little more work, but it is an excellent way to save both plants and money from year to year.
Indoor Herb Garden – How To Have An Herb Garden Inside:
When you grow an herb garden inside, you can benefit from enjoying fresh herbs year round. In order to be successful at growing herbs indoors you need to follow a few simple steps. Keep reading to learn how to grow herbs indoors successfully.
Starting An Indoor Herb Garden
Before starting your herb garden inside, you need to decide what you will be growing in your indoor herb garden. Most popular herbs can be grown indoors. Some herbs you might want to grow are:
* Basil
* Rosemary
* Cilantro
* Chives
* Oregano
* Parsley
* Sage
* Thyme
* Mint
If you are new to growing herbs indoors, you may want to start with just 2 or 3 of your favorite herbs and add more as you become more confident.
You will also need to choose a container for your indoor herb garden to grow in. The container should either have drainage holes or should be deep enough that you can add rocks at the bottom to create a drainage reservoir for excess water to run into. Herbs that are grown indoors cannot sit in waterlogged soil or they will die.
The soil you use in your herb garden inside should be rich in organic material. A good quality potting soil will work fine. Do not use dirt from the garden as this can get compacted easily and will strangle the herb plants.
Once you have chosen the herbs you will grow indoors and the container and soil, you can plant the herbs in the container as you would any other plant.
How To Grow Herbs Indoors
Once the herbs are planted, you will need to care for the herbs. Growing herbs indoors successfully has four important parts, light, temperature, watering and humidity.
Light For Herbs Growing Indoors
Herbs growing indoors need at least 6 hours of sunlight to grow well. If they do not get this much sun, they will become leggy and start to lose their flavor. Place your indoor herb garden in the sunniest spot you can find. If you feel that spot will not provide enough light, supplement the sunlight with light from a fluorescent bulb placed less than a foot from the herbs.
You may need to rotate the container that the indoor herb garden is growing in so that all of the herbs have a even amount of sun and do not grow crooked.
The Right Temperature For Growing Herbs Indoors
Most herbs cannot tolerate cold temperatures. The herbs will grow best inside if the temperature around them is 65F to 75F.
Make sure that your herb garden is not being affected by drafts from windows or doors. Even small amounts of cold temperatures can kill some herbs.
Watering Indoor Herbs
Indoor herb gardens need to be watered regularly. They should never be allowed to dry out, but you should also not over water them. Check your indoor herb garden daily and water it when the top of the soil just starts to feel dry (though if you stick your finger into the soil, the lower layer will still be damp.
You can also add a bit of water soluble fertilizer to the water once a month to help the herbs get the nutrients they need.
Humidity For Indoor Herbs
Indoor herbs need both high humidity and excellent air circulation. Mist your herbs once a week or set them on a tray of pebbles filled with water to keep the humidity up. If you find your herbs are affected by mildew, you may want to consider adding a fan to keep the air circulation consistent.
Growing An Indoor Window Sill Herb Garden – Tips For A Indoor Herb Garden:
There is nothing like being able to pick fresh herbs for your favorite dishes right when you need them. However, when you grow them outside, it is hard to get them fresh all year long unless you live somewhere the climate allows. This is where an indoor window sill herb garden comes in quite handy.
Why grow indoor herbs
If you have ever grown herbs outside in a garden, you know how easily they grow. Well, planting indoor herbs is not much different. Further, an indoor herb garden can be in your kitchen on the window sill right at your fingertips for when you are making that special recipe.
So you might be asking yourself, “How do I grow indoor herbs?” You will find that planting indoor herbs isn’t much different than growing them outside except for the quantity you can grow.
Tips for a indoor herb garden
When you start your indoor herb garden, going to the local green house or gardening center for your herb seeds is a great start. Quality seeds to grow indoor herbs is best. Sometimes baby plants can be purchased, but a lot of people enjoy planting indoor herbs from seed.
When purchasing your indoor herb garden seeds, keep in mind that rosemary, basil, oregano, lavender, chamomile and mint all grow well indoors. They seem to thrive in indoor window sill herb gardens.
Any container will do for an indoor herb garden. Just make sure that there is proper drainage in the containers you choose. The soil is also crucial in that you need to make sure the soil is mixed with sand and lime so the herbs have great soil conditions allowing maximum growth.
Planting indoor herbs isn’t difficult. Choose an area that allows for at least partial sunlight. Near a skylight or a window is perfect. Southern facing windows provide the most sunlight and the northern facing ones don’t provide enough. Fluorescent lighting can be used to supplement the lighting when winter provides very little. Further, in the spring and summer, your plants can go outdoors on a patio for fresh air and plenty of direct sunlight.
These are just a few tips for a indoor herb garden to follow. You can find many books on the subject. Hopefully, the answer to your question “how do I grow herbs indoors?” helped you enough to go start your own indoor window sill herb garden.
Growing Herbs At Home: Making An Herb Garden In Your Yard:
Choosing A Location For Starting An Herb Garden
Most of the herbs that you can grow at home need two things. These are that they need sunlight and that they like well-drained soil. This means that when considering places in your yard to plant an herb garden, you need to look for a location that gets 6 or more hours of sunlight a day and that is well drained.
Many people also consider convenience when selecting a place to start growing an herb garden. Making an herb garden near the kitchen in your home or near the house will make it easier to harvest herbs from the herb garden.
Preparing The Soil Before You Plant An Herb Garden
Once you have chosen the location for growing an herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost to the soil. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.
When growing herbs, do not use composted manures in the herb garden. These are typically high in nitrogen, which will make the herbs grow quickly but will reduce the flavors of the herbs.
Choosing The Herbs You Will Be Growing In An Herb Garden
The herbs you will grow in your garden depends largely on what you would like to grow. Almost all herbs will grow for at least one season in the herb garden. Some will grow year after year.
Some common herbs that people grow when first starting an herb garden are:
* Basil
* Oregano
* Rosemary
* Chives
* Mint
* Sage
* Dill
Planting And Growing Herbs
Herbs can be started from seed or planted as plants. Planting herb plants is easier than starting them from seed, but if you are on a tight budget, starting herbs from seeds is not that difficult.
Once you have you have planted your herb garden, make sure that it gets 2 inches of rain a week.
Also make sure to harvest your herbs frequently. Many times when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. This is not the case and the opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest.
At the end of the season, you can also dry or freeze your herb harvest so that you can enjoy fresh herbs all year round.
Taking the time to plant an herb garden is very satisfying and easy. By starting an herb garden and growing herbs, you can add beauty to your garden and flavor to your kitchen.
Growing Organic Herbs:
Herbs can be the easiest produce to grow organically. Like all organic gardens, an herb garden starts with good soil. Once you have achieved that, raising most herbs will be a piece of cake. Herbs can be planted outdoors in smaller spaces than a vegetable garden would take. Many herbs can also be grown in containers, which can be brought inside at the end of regular growing season for a year-round harvest.
Preparing for an herb garden is basically the same as preparing for any other type of organic garden. First, enrich the soil by adding compost or other organic nutrients. Second, choose strong seedlings or if planting by seed, thin the young plants to allow for optimum growth. Third, use mulch to control weeds. Fourth, use only organic pesticides and companion planting to deter the insect population.
Ten Popular Herbs You Can Grow
Below, I’ve listed ten popular cooking herbs along with the best conditions for growing them and the best times to harvest.
Basil – This annual plant grows to a height of about two feet. It prefers full sun and rich soil. Basil should be planted where it has some protection from strong winds. Basil can be harvested when the plant has first reached full growth. Clip leaves and stems from the top three or four inches of the plant. Using this method will allow for several harvests over the growing season.
Chives – This perennial is best grown in clumps and at maturity will reach a height of approximately 18 inches. Chives thrive in full sun and heavily nurtured soil, so extra compost and mulch is necessary. Chives should be divided every year, so plan on extra space. Chives can be harvested at any time during the season, as the tender leaves are what are most often used in cooking.
Dill – Another annual that is also best grown in clumps. Reaching a height of around 3 feet, dill should be planted where they do not shade other plants. The leaves of the dill plant can be harvested during the growing season as needed, while the fruiting umbels are harvested when the fruit is fully formed but not yet brown.
Marjoram – Marjoram is a perennial that must be grown as an annual in areas where freezing is common during the winter months. Marjoram should be started from seed in peat pots or other growing medium in late winter and transplanted as early in the spring as possible to a permanent location outside. Marjoram grows to a height of between one and two feet. Harvest when the plants begin to bloom by cutting back several inches from the flower heads. Several cuttings can be made before season’s end.
Parsley – Parsley is a biennial, but the leaves of the plant can be harvested anytime during the first season once the plant has neared maturity. Parsley is slow to germinate, and the seed should be soaked overnight before planting in a partially shaded area.
Rosemary – A perennial plant that after a few years will become an ever producing shrub, with rosemary, you must take care to choose a location where it will have plenty of room to grow. Rosemary will grow in poor soil provided it is fertilized with ample lime and full sun. Harvest after the plant has reached full growth of approximately three foot tall.
Sage – Another perennial that should be started indoors in late winter and transplanted when two to three inches tall, sage is a great choice for your organic herb garden. Outdoors sage prefers full sun and sandy soil. Harvest the leaves before the plant blooms and again at the end of the growing season. Sage should be replanted every three or four years, as older plants tend to become woody.
Savory – An annual herb that prefers full sun and rich, mostly dry, soil. Savory can be harvested at any time during the season for immediate use. For drying, savory should be harvested by cutting the top six inches of the plant after is has flowered.
Thyme – A perennial that should be started indoors and transplanted when the plants reach two to three inches. Thyme does best in full sun and sandy, sweet soil and grows to around 18 inches in height. Harvest by cutting the top six inches from the plant when it is in bloom.
Oregano - Oregano is a perennial plant that grows to around 20 inches tall. Oregano is simple to grow provided it has full sun and fairly dry soil. Harvest a few leaves for immediate use once the plant has reached near maturity. For drying, harvest at the end of the season.
Most herbs can be used either fresh or dried. Chives are the exception, as they tend to lose their flavor when allowed to dry.
Growing Tarragon In The Herb Garden:
While it’s not particularly attractive, tarragon is a hardy herb commonly grown for its aromatic leaves and peppery-like flavor, which is used in flavoring many dishes, but especially popular for flavoring vinegar. Although tarragon is best grown from seedlings, cuttings, or divisions, some varieties can be propagated from seeds. Growing tarragon can add a sophisticated herb to your garden.
Tarragon Seeds
Tarragon seeds should be started indoors around April or before your area’s last expected frost. It’s usually easier to sow about 4-6 seeds per pot using moist, composted potting soil. Cover the seeds lightly and keep them in low light at room temperature. Once seedlings begin to sprout, or reach a couple inches tall, they can be thinned down to one plant per pot, preferably the healthiest or strongest looking.
Growing Tarragon Herb
Seedlings can be transplanted outdoors once temperatures have significantly warmed. Tarragon herb plants should be grown in areas receiving full sun. Space tarragon plants approximately 1 ½ – 2 feet apart to ensure adequate air circulation as well. They should also be located in well-drained, fertile soil.
However, these hardy plants will tolerate and even thrive in areas having poor, dry or sandy soil. Tarragon has a vigorous root system, making it quite tolerant of arid conditions. Established plants do not require frequent watering, outside of extreme drought. Applying a generous layer of mulch in fall will help the plants throughout winter too. They can also be grown year round indoors as house plants or in the greenhouse.
Harvesting and Storing Tarragon Herb Plants
You can harvest both the leaves and flowers of tarragon herb plants. Harvesting usually takes place in late summer. While best used fresh, tarragon plants can be frozen or dried until ready for use. Plants should be divided every 3-5 years as well.
French Tarragon Plants
French tarragon plants can be grown the same as other tarragon varieties. What sets these plants apart from other tarragon plants is the fact that French tarragon cannot be grown from seeds. Instead, when growing tarragon of this variety, which is prized for its superior anise-like flavor, must be propagated by cuttings or division only.
Learn How To Grow Oregano:
Oregano is an easy-care herb that can be grown indoors or out in the garden. As it is native to hot, arid regions, the oregano plant is perfect for growing in areas prone to drought. This herb also makes an exceptional companion plant for garden vegetables, repelling insect pests that commonly affect beans and broccoli. Let’s look at how to grow oregano in your garden.
How to Grow Oregano Plant
Growing oregano is easy. Oregano can be grown from seeds, cuttings, or purchased container plants.
Seeds should be started indoors prior to your region’s last expected frost. There’s no need cover oregano herb seeds with soil. Simply mist them with water and cover the seed tray or container with plastic. Place this in a sunny location, such as a window, to germinate. Oregano seeds usually germinate within about a week or so. Once the seedlings have reached approximately 6 inches tall, the plants can be thinned down to about a foot apart.
Oregano plants can be set out or transplanted in the garden once the risk of frost has passed. Locate oregano in areas receiving full sun and in well-drained soil.
Established plants do not require much attention. In fact, these drought-tolerant herbs need watering only during excessively dry periods. Oregano doesn’t need to be fertilized either, as these hardy plants can typically take care of themselves. For optimal flavor (if growing oregano for kitchen use) or more compact plant growth, flower buds can be pinched out as they begin to bloom.
Harvesting Oregano Herb
Oregano herb plants are commonly used for cooking. Plants can be harvested anytime once they have reached 4-6 inches tall. Harvesting oregano leaves as flower buds form will oftentimes yield the best flavor. Harvest oregano leaves in the morning hours once dew has dried.
Oregano leaves can be stored whole, placed in freezer bags and frozen. They can also be dried in a dark, well-ventilated area and stored in airtight containers until ready to use.
Oregano plants should be cut back to the ground and covered with a layer of mulch for over wintering outdoors. Container grown plants can be brought inside for growing oregano indoors year round.
Now that you know how to grow oregano, you can add this tasty herb to your herb garden and enjoy it!
Growing Oregano Inside Your House: How To Grow Oregano Indoors:
Oregano is a heat loving, pungent herb that is found in Mediterranean and Mexican cooking. Growing oregano indoors is an excellent way to bring those flavors to your food. If you are a dedicated cook, a display of fresh growing herbs near to hand enhances your dishes and enlivens recipes. Planting oregano indoors can be done alone or in a trough with other like minded herbs.
Planting Oregano Indoors
Indoor oregano plants need similar conditions to exterior raised plants. The ideal temperatures for growing oregano inside are between 65F and 70F in the day and 55F to 60F degrees at night.
The container should have excellent drainage. The oregano can be planted in equal parts potting soil, sand, peat moss and perlite. When you plant the oregano make certain only the root ball is buried and the main stems are not immersed in soil or they may rot. Place your potted oregano in bright light.
Oregano can be moved outdoors in summer if you wish but remember to bring it back in before temperatures change drastically or you may shock and kill it. Oregano grown in containers will have a harder time surviving cold weather than oregano grown in the ground.
How To Grow Oregano Indoors
Oregano is an easy to care for plant that requires at least six to eight hours of sun. A bright southern exposure window is perfect or you can use a plant light. Place the herbs no closer than 5 or 6 inches but no less than 15 inches away from an artificial light source.
Oregano needs to have the soil dry out a bit in between watering and benefits from frequent haircuts to keep the plant compact and producing leaves. Fertilize the oregano every two weeks with a diluted water soluble food every two weeks.
Herbs are so easy to care for that only a few items need to be remembered when learning how to grow oregano indoors.
Companion Herbs for Indoor Oregano
Growing oregano inside as a part of an herb display allows the cook to have a variety of fresh herbs available. The types of herbs planted with oregano should require the same culture and exposure. Bay, marjoram, sage and thyme have similar water and sun requirements and can be added to containers when growing oregano indoors.
Any herb that likes bright light, medium water and has a moderate growth rate would make a good companion plant for oregano growing indoors. Keep any of the herbs from flowering which reduces the life of the plant.
Growing Thyme Indoors: How To Grow Thyme Indoors:
Fresh available herbs are a delight for the home cook. What could be better than having the scents and flavors near to hand in the kitchen? Thyme is a useful herb that can be used in a variety of ways. It adds a delicate aroma and almost grassy spice to any dish. Growing thyme indoors requires plenty of sunshine and well drained soil. Growing thyme inside is one of the easiest indoor herbs to cultivate.
Planting Thyme Indoors
Thyme is both a culinary and aromatic herb. An excellent container for growing thyme is a clay planter. Other types of pots will suffice but a clay pot will allow the thyme herb to dry out between watering and prevent overly wet roots. Thyme is not tolerant of soggy root conditions. The container should have at least one large drainage hole for adequate leaching.
A good mix of sand, potting soil, peat moss and perlite will provide adequate nutrients and drainage.
Thyme can tolerate indirect light which makes it perfect for the kitchen herb garden. The best results will be found when thyme is planted where it receives six hours of daylight. Once the thyme has been planted place the container in a southern or western facing window if possible.
Growing thyme inside will require temperatures in the day time around 60 degrees Fahrenheit or more.
How to Grow Thyme Indoors
Herb care for plants indoors is much the same as for those outdoors. Water completely at each time but allow the pot to dry before watering again.
Fertilize thyme with a weak solution of fish emulsion or liquid seaweed, diluted by half every two weeks.
Cut back overly woody stems on the thyme plant to force fresh new growth. Trim off flowers and dry them for a sachet or use them in tea. Removal of flowers increases foliage production.
Potted Thyme Care
Container grown thyme will need to be repotted every season or two depending on the size of the pot and rate of growth. You will know it’s time when the roots are growing out of the bottom of the container. Thyme plants divide easily when repotted to reproduce even more plants.
Thyme growing indoors will benefit from relocation to the outdoors in summer. Begin by exposing the potted thyme to a semi-shade location to acclimate it to outdoor light and temperatures. Gradually move it to full sun.
Using and Harvesting Thyme
Growing thyme indoors allows you to have a constant ready supply of fresh seasoning. You can start using your thyme as soon as the plant has plenty of foliage. Cut off the stems and rinse them. Pick off the leaves or simply run your thumb and index finger down the length of the stem to push off the leaves.
Chop the leaves or add them whole to sauces, soups and other dishes. The stems can be stewed in stock to release their flavor but remember to strain them out. Thyme leaves can also be dried by spreading them on a cookie sheet for a day or so in a warm dry area.
How To Grow Cilantro Indoors:
Growing cilantro indoors can be as successful and flavorful as growing cilantro in your garden if you give it a little extra care.
When planting cilantro indoors it’s best not to transplant plants from your garden. Cilantro does not transplant well. When you grow cilantro indoors start with seeds or starter plants. Ultimately, make sure that your plants are 3 – 4 inches apart.
Tips for growing cilantro indoors
It is best to use an unglazed terra cotta container when growing cilantro inside because it allows for greater moisture and air to pass through the plant. Make sure that you have plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the container so that water can pass through when watering.
Cilantro growing indoors needs more nutrition because the root system range is limited, and can’t access as much soil for nutrients as it would in your garden. The soil when planting cilantro indoors should be a mixture of potting soil and sand to allow water to move more freely. In addition, you can use a fertilizer of liquid fish emulsion or chemical formulation of 20-20-20 to add additional nutrients. Use 1/2 concentrations of the fertilizers bi-weekly during the active growing periods.
Thorough watering is more important than frequent watering when growing cilantro inside. Water the plants until the water comes out the drainage holes in the bottom of the container. Check the soil frequently, but cilantro growing indoors should only be watered when the soil is dry to the touch. This will be more often in the summer months.
To grow cilantro indoors, it is important that the plant have full sun 4 – 5 hours per day. If you also use a growing light, growing the cilantro inside will be more successful.
Harvesting cilantro growing indoors
When you grow cilantro indoors, it is important to harvest it with care. Indoor herbs naturally reach for the light, and can therefore become spindly. Pinch them at the growing tips to force a bushier plant.
Keep in mind when planting cilantro indoors that it will grow less abundantly than when grown outside in your garden. However, with added care and attention to sun exposure, soil mixture, moisture and gentle harvesting, you will be rewarded with this flavorful and aromatic herb year round.
Information On How To Grow Basil Indoors:
While basil is a commonly grown herb outdoors, this easy-care plant can also be grown indoors. In fact, you can grow basil inside much the same as you would in the garden. This wonderfully fragrant herb can be grown for use in the kitchen, making aromatic oils, or simply for aesthetic purposes. Let’s look at how to grow basil indoors.
Basil Growing Indoors
Growing basil indoors is easy. Container grown basil should be planted in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Using the proper soil type is important in order to successfully grow basil inside. As basil is not tolerant of water stress, make sure pots provide adequate drainage. While the soil should be kept somewhat moist, it should never be soggy; otherwise, the roots will be prone to rotting.
Basil growing indoors will require fertilizing. Depending on the variety grown and its overall purpose, a general house plant fertilizer can be used. As with many house plant fertilizers, this should be used at half the recommended strength. However, basil used solely for flavoring foods requires the use of an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer also helps to maintain pH levels when growing basil indoors.
Healthy pH levels are another important aspect of quality soil. You should check the pH levels of soil about once a month or every four to six weeks for optimal growth. Sufficient pH levels are usually between 6.0 and 7.5.
Best lighting to grow basil inside
Additionally, when growing basil indoors, lighting is important. Basil growing indoors requires at least six hours of sunlight. Basil plants should be placed in a sunny window, preferably facing south. Otherwise, these potted plants may need to be grown under fluorescent lights. With this type of lighting, basil plants will need about ten hours of light for healthy growth. However, basil grown indoors can also be given both sun and artificial lighting by alternating so many hours in each.
While growing basil indoors is an easy endeavor, the vigorous growth of plants may require frequent repotting.
If you follow these few easy tips on how to grow basil indoors, you will be rewarded with this delicious herb year round.
How To Grow Chives Indoors:
Growing chives indoors make perfect sense so that you may have them near the kitchen. Use chives liberally in dishes; chives growing indoors will benefit from a regular trim. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow chives indoors.
How To Grow Chives Indoors
A sunny south window offers the six to eight hours of full sunlight needed when growing chives inside. Rotate pots if chives are reaching toward the light.
If a sunny window is not an option, chives growing indoors can get the necessary light from a fluorescent fixture six to twelve inches above the pot. Two 40 watt bulbs work best when growing chives inside.
Chives growing indoors appreciate other growing pots close by to provide humidity as well as a fan for air circulation. Humidity for indoor chives may also be provided by nearby pebble trays filled with water or miniature water features nearby. Misting with a water bottle can also help prevent low humidity.
Chives growing inside should be watered when the soil is dry to the touch on the top.
Low doses fertilization is recommended for growing chives indoors. A water soluble fertilizer at half strength may be applied twice per month, heavier doses may weaken the taste of the chives.
When growing chives indoors, pests should be minimal. Often the aroma of chives acts at a pest repellant, but in the event of insect problems, spray well with soapy water. This can be applied as needed.
Tips For Planting Chives Indoors
To begin growing chives indoors, fill a six inch clay pot with well-draining potting medium which you have pre-moistened. Soil should form a ball when squeezed, but not be soggy or dripping water. Broadcast seeds over the pre-moistened medium and cover with a fine layer of the pre-moistened soil, about ¼ inch. Place in the lighted area. Seeds may be kept moist until germination with a mist of water, weak plant food or weak compost tea.
Chives germinate within two weeks, often more quickly. Growing chives indoors offers a handy and easy way to season your food and brighten your space.
How To Grow Rosemary Indoors:
Growing rosemary indoors is sometimes a tricky thing to do. Many good gardeners have tried and, despite their best efforts, end up with a dry, brown, dead rosemary plant. But, if you know the secrets to proper care of rosemary plants growing inside, you can keep your rosemary plants growing happily indoors all winter long.
Tips For Growing Rosemary Indoors
Most often, there are four things on the list of what kills rosemary plants indoors. These are:
* lack of sunlight
* poor watering practices
* powdery mildew
* pests
If you can avoid these issues, your rosemary plant will live happily inside. Let look at how to avoid each.
Lack Of Sunlight:
Most people are not aware that the lack of sunshine is the most common reason for a rosemary plant growing indoors to die. Often, rosemary plants are brought indoors without any acclimation. They go from 6-8 hours of strong, direct light to 4-6 hours of weak or indirect light. The rosemary plant is unable to produce enough energy to stay alive on this amount of weak light and simply dies.
The first step to preventing rosemary light starvation is to put your rosemary on a sunlight diet before you bring it indoors. Several weeks before you plan on bringing the rosemary inside, move the plant to gradually shadier areas of your yard. This will force the rosemary plant to grow leaves that are more efficient at turning light into energy, which will help it cope with weaker indoor light when t moves inside.
Once your rosemary moves indoors, make sure that you place it in the brightest window in your house, which is normally a south facing window. If your rosemary plant is not getting at least 6-8 hours of light a day, place a lamp with a fluorescent light bulb as close as possible to the plant to help supplement the sunlight.
Poor Watering Practices
The second most common reason for an indoor rosemary dying is watering practices. Often, indoor rosemary plants are watered too little or too much. Make sure that the drainage on the container with the rosemary is excellent. Only water the soil when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. But, that being said, never let the soil dry out completely.
In the winter, rosemary plants grow much more slowly and need much less water than they do in the summer. Watering too often will cause root rot, which will kill the plant. On the other side, if the soil of the rosemary plant is allowed to dry out completely, the roots will die back and the plant will not have enough roots to support itself.
Powdery Mildew:
Indoors or outdoors, rosemary plants are very susceptible to powdery mildew. Most homes do not have the same air circulation as the outside world does, which makes this an even worse problem for the plant inside.
The best way to drive away powdery mildew on rosemary plants is to increase the air circulation around it. Letting a fan blow on it for a few hours a day or taking it out of more high humidity rooms, like the bathroom or kitchen, will help improve the air circulation.
You can also treat the plant with a fungicide to help keep away the powdery mildew.
Pests
To be honest, while pests may get the blame for killing a rosemary plant, most pests will only infest a plant that is already weakened. Unfortunately, most rosemary growing indoors, despite all best efforts, are growing in a somewhat weakened state. But, the more strict you are with yourself about making sure that your rosemary plant is watered properly and gets enough light, the less likely pests will bother the plant.
But, if your rosemary is infected with pests, use a houseplant pesticide to remove them. Since rosemary is an herb and it is mainly grown to be eaten, look for organic pesticides. One that is growing in popularity is neem oil, as it is very effective against pests but is completely harmless to humans and pets.
White Powder On Rosemary? Getting Rid Of Powdery Mildew On Rosemary:
A lot of people enjoy having small kitchen window sill plants like rosemary. However, although they are easy to grow, they are not without faults. Often times, you will find that there are problems with growing rosemary, one of them being a common fungus.
Powdery mildew on rosemary
Perhaps you have noticed a white powder on your rosemary plants in your kitchen. If so, you are not alone. The white powder is actually powdery mildew on rosemary, a common plant ailment. It is caused by many different fungi that are closely related. This is one of the most common problems with growing rosemary plants, and all indoor plants actually. Each indoor plant has a white powdery mildew that is specific to that particular plant. Rosemary is no different.
Powdery mildew won’t kill the rosemary plant, but it will weaken it. This is one of the easiest plant diseases to diagnose. Powdery mildew appears as a white powder on rosemary which coats the leaves of the plant. The powder is actually thousands of little spores and can spread to other plants if severe enough.
How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Powdery mildew can be partially removed if you rub the leaves of your rosemary plant carefully. If you don’t try to remove some of it, the white powder on rosemary can result in leaf drop. The powdery mildew on rosemary can rob the plants of the nutrients they need to grow.
Powdery mildew on rosemary is one of the most common problems with growing rosemary in the house. It can definitely make the plant look a little ragged, but it shouldn’t kill it. You should pick up any infected leaves that have fallen off the plant. Also, take infected plants out of high humidity rooms like the bathroom or kitchen.
Finally, spraying the white powder on rosemary with a fungicide will help to kill it. You might want to try spraying water on it first every few days to knock the mildew off before resorting to fungicide. You might need to repeat this every few days for it to be effective, but be careful not to overwater the plant itself or you will end up with root rot, another one of the common problems for rosemary plants or other indoor houseplants.
Now that you know what the white powder on rosemary is, and how to treat it, you can go back to enjoying your rosemary plant.
How to Dry Herbs
Once you learn the basics of growing herbs indoors and you have your plants flourishing, the next step is to learn how to dry herbs. Drying herbs will help preserve them so you can keep them and store them to use for anywhere from 6 months to a year.
There are two basic methods of drying herbs that work well. They are using a dehydrator (usually takes a few hours and the USDA National Center for Food Preservation Recommends) and the hanging method, which usually takes several weeks. Each of these methods works well for extracting the moisture and retaining the essential oils which gives your herbs their flavor and health benefits. Whichever one you use is entirely up to you, but below we’ll do a brief overview of how each is done.
Dehydrator Method
Using a food dehydrator is the fastest and easiest way to dry not only herbs but really just about anything! This is also the method the National Center for Home Food Preservation recommends to use for drying herbs the most safely and effectively. The only caveat for this is you MUST have a high quality dehydrator. The one we use and recommend is the Excalibur 3000 Series 9-Tray Food Dehydrator, which features adjustable thermostat controls, a timer (which means you can use it without even thinking about it – it will turn off after the time you set it for!), and is awesome not only for drying herbs but also works exceptionally well for all types of garden goodies and homemade foods. It’s our favorite to use with drying herbs because you can set it to the lowest setting of 85 degrees, and most other ones do not go lower than 100. If the setting is too high, the essential oils will be lost. The 9 trays works very well also because you can remove some trays from the unit and allow for better ventilation, especially for items with larger leaves. Yes, it is an investment – but it’s also one you’ll likely you for the rest of your life and may even pay for itself in grocery bill and time savings. Click Here for the Excalibur 3000 Series 9 Tray Food Dehydrator
(Update: There also seems to be another model with similar features that is half the price that may be worth checking out, though we have not personally used it to tell you for sure – it is the TSM Harvest Food Dehydrator)
Using the Dehydrator to Dry Herbs
To use the dehydrator, you will want to carefully remove the stems and branches of your herbs and then remove the leaves and place them in a single layer on the dehydrator trays, making sure that you leave enough space between trays for air circulation. If need be, remove trays in between for more air flow and space. You should use the lowest temperature as possible, and drying time will vary between 1-4 hours depending on which types of herbs you are drying. You will know the herbs are dried when they can easily crumble when you touch them. Then they are ready to store and use. (See, we told you it was easy!)
Air Drying Directions for Drying Herbs
If you do not want to use the dehydrator you can still get good results doing it the old fashioned way of hanging them to dry – just be prepared for it to take at least 2 weeks if not longer!
Materials Needed for Air Drying
Rubber band or string
Brown Paper Bags
Scissors
Label & Markers
Plastic bags or canisters for storing
Hooks/Hanger for hanging
Step 1: Picking the Herbs: Your herbs MUST be dry before trying to dry them, so be sure that they are not wet from rain, watering, or dew drops, otherwise you risk the likelihood of mold and other problems.
Step 2: Tie Them Together: Pick between 4-6 branches and tie the ends together with a piece of string or yarn. Thick rubber bands also work well. Be sure before tying them together you remove any leaves or stems that do not look healthy, as this could cause mold or other issues while drying.
Step 3: Place in a Paper Bag: Take the scissors and cut a few small venting holes in the paper bag. This will help air get to them to dry and prevent them from getting moldy or collecting dust, since it will likely take a couple of weeks. Place the branches in the bag so the leaves are at the bottom of the bag and the stems are at the top. Tie the top of the bag and be sure to leave enough string so you can hang it. Label the bag using a permanent marker as to what it is, since it may be more difficult to tell once they are dry.
Step 4: Hang the Herbs: You will want to hang them in a dry, warm, and airy place – they must get good ventilation, so try not to put them in closed up spaces such as a closet, and do not put them in places where moisture is a problem, such as basements.
Step 5: Wait a Long Time: Okay, so two weeks or so isn’t that long to wait, but after you use a dehydrator it is really hard to go back to this method because with a dehydrator it only takes a few hours, not to mention the time you save in tying them all together! You will know your herbs are dry because they will crumble when you touch them.
Other Tips for Drying Herbs
* Pick Stems/Branches off whole so the plant will grow new ones
* Pick before the plant flowers/blossoms if applicable
* Pick in the mid-morning, as this is when the plants are usually at their best
* Store in dark, air tight containers to preserve longevity
* If air drying, you may want to consider running a fan in the room to promote good ventilation
* Microwaving, Ovens, and Sunlight will likely cause the herbs to lose their potency, flavor and smell, so avoid these methods when possible
Now that you know the two easy basic ways for how to dry herbs, you’re ready to get started and go! If you don’t have a food dehydrator yet, make sure you check out the TSM Harvest Food Dehydrator or the Click Here for the Excalibur 3000 Series 9 Tray Food Dehydrator – both which have the right settings and features to use for dehydrating herbs properly.
Basic Tips Before you Start the Drying Process
Pick herbs just before the plant flowers to ensure that the flavors are at their strongest.
When cutting herbs, make sure they are healthy. A few dead or damaged leaves here and they will not affect your drying as long as you discard them before drying process.
Read more: http://www.herbcompanion.com/in-the-herb-garden/diy-drying-fresh-herbs.aspx#ixzz1NVfojvh2
HANG DRYING: Hang drying is an ideal technique for long-stemmed herbs such as lavender, sage and rosemary.
Technique: Make a bundle of stems and tie the ends together. Pick a drying location that has good air circulation with minimal exposure to sunlight and dust. Hang the bundles upside down, and check back on the herbs in one to two weeks. You will know when the herbs are completely dried because the leaves will come off of the stem with minimal effort. Once they are dry, you can crumble them and store them into jars.
Pros: Hanging herbs is one of the easiest techniques and requires very minimal time.
Cons: If you do not have the right drying location, your herbs can take longer to dry.
[hr]
SCREEN DRYING: This technique is great for smaller herbs.
Technique: Place the herbs on a window screen. As an alternative, you can use a piece of cheesecloth material stretched over a frame or any material that permits air circulation. Your herbs should be kept in a dry climate with minimal exposure to sunlight. Check on them after a couple of days and flip them over for so that they dry evenly. They will dry in about one week.
Pros: The process only takes about a week to complete. Like hang drying herbs, the process requires minimal time.
Cons: This drying technique requires space and a specific environment.
OVEN DRYING: Oven drying herbs speeds up the drying process, so be careful not to use this method for herbs that ignite quickly, such as sage.
Technique: Pull fresh leaves off of the stalk and place on an oven try. The oven should be around 350 to 400 degrees. Keep them in the oven for 5 to 10 minutes or until they are brittle. If the herbs are not freshly picked, reduce the oven temperature to 100 degrees and keep a constant eye on them so they do not burn.
Pros: This is the quickest drying process.
Cons: Unlike the previous techniques, using your oven to dry herbs is an expense. Also, this technique is very interactive.
REFRIGERATOR DRYING:
Drying herbs in the refrigerator is great for small-leaved herbs like marjoram, rosemary and thyme.
Technique: Place small-leaved herbs on a plate and place in the refrigerator. For larger-leaved herbs, like basil, place leaves on a tray in the refrigerator. Check on them frequently and stir them around to avoid wilting and to ensure an even drying process. (Each type of herb has different drying times.) Once they are dry, place them into containers or freezer bags. Store them in the freezer for later use.
Pros: This cool, dry and dark climate will preserve oils and give you a minimal drying time.
Cons: This process requires spare refrigerator space. If the food in the refrigerator is not covered well, the odors will migrate to the herbs and they might taste like other foods. The opposite is true as well; food might taste like the herbs you are drying if the food is not covered well.
How to Dry Your Own Fresh Mint:
Growing your own mint is healthy, economical and actually very easy! Mints will readily make themselves at home in full sun to partial shade in moist soil. Most gardeners don't have any trouble growing mints, but it can get away from you if you are not careful. At Farm Fresh Living we recommend growing all mints organically and in a contained area, such as a raised bed or patio container or planting them in a large pot in the ground. All mints perform best when they are harvested or cut back at regular intervals which is ideal for drying and saving herbs to be used at a later time.
Mint Varieties to Use:
While you can dry any variety of mint, our favorite mints to dry and use at the farm are:
* Orange Mint - delicious citrus flavor and aroma. Use Orange mint in teas, cosmetics and culinary applications.
* Chocolate Mint - smells just like an Andes after-dinner mint, decadent!
* Peppermint - the classic mint flavor and aroma. Useful in culinary application, teas and cosmetics.
* Spearmint - fresh and clean taste and smell. Use in aromatherapy, culinary uses, cosmetics and of course teas.
* Apple Mint - lush apple green foliage and a sweet green apple aroma make this a wonderful mint to add to any herb garden.
* Pineapple Mint - Attractive green and white foliage makes this compact slow growing mint a favorite in the garden; we also love it for it's versatility in the kitchen!
* Ginger Mint - perfect for summer salads, stir-fry dishes and herb teas; ginger mint has a slight pepper spice flavor with a delicious ginger scent.
Harvesting your Fresh Mint:
The best time to harvest mints for drying is just before they flower. Mint leaves retain the highest oil content prior to flowering. The oil content in herbs is what gives the herb its aroma and flavor. If possible always cut mint mid-morning after the leaves have dried but before the heat of the day. Harvesting in the early evening is also a good time. When you harvest mint cut stems of equal length and at least 4" -5" long. You will need the length in the stems if you intend to hang your mint upside down to dry.
Herb Drying Methods:
Most herbs can be dried either in the oven, in a dehydrator or by hanging in a dark, warm area.
Drying Herbs Using the Hanging Method: All herbs must be dried thoroughly before storing and particularly those with high moisture content such as mint, basil, rosemary and tarragon. To dry herbs, gather a bunch of herbs together by the stems and tie tightly with twine. Cover the bunch of mint with a brown lunch bag and secure. Covering the herbs with a brown bag will help them to retain their color and oil content during the drying process. Hang the bunch of herbs upside down in a dark , warm (70 degrees - 80 degrees) well-ventilated, dust free area. We dry our herbs in the rafters of one our barns, but you can use a garage or other structure if needed. It typically takes 1-2 weeks for the herbs to dry completely.
Drying Herbs Using the Oven Method: Drying mint in an oven is a faster way to complete the process, but you will loose some of the oil content from the leaves. Dry in a very cool oven (high temperatures will result in tasteless herbs). Basically, just turn the oven on to "warm" (140 to 200 F) (or 65 degrees C to 93 degrees C, gas mark 1) for 20 minutes, then turn it off and pop in the herbs.
Strip dried leaves from stems and discard the stems. Take care to not crush the leaves as this will result in flavorless herbs. Place the leaves on a baking sheet in a single layer. Turn the oven on to 'warm' for 20-30 minutes then turn the oven off. Place the baking sheet in the oven and leave until the herbs are dried. Oven times vary based upon the make and model of the oven, so some trail and error is required.
Herb Storage Techniques:
When your mint leaves are completely dry, either carefully remove them from the brown bag or off of the baking sheet depending on the drying technique that you used. I recommend not crushing your herbs, but rather storing them whole and then crushing them if needed right before using. Store the dried herbs in airtight containers such as canning jars. Never store herbs in plastic containers or plastic wrap as the oil will leech out of the herbs into the plastic. Check your stored herbs frequently after you have stored them for the first few weeks to look for any signs of moisture. Herbs will mold quickly in closed jars if not completely dry.Once you are sure the herbs are completely dry, place them in the airtight containers, and store them in a cool, dry place away from light.
Microwave Drying:
Place 1/2 to 1 cup of herbs between layers of microwave-safe paper towels. Microwave on high power for 2 to 3 minutes, checking often to make sure they are not scorching. Microwave in additional 15-second intervals, if necessary, until leaves are brittle and pull from stem easily.
Air Drying:
Cut sprigs several inches in length then strip the bottom leaves to expose a few inches of bare stems. Gather into small, loose bunches---you want to leave room around the leaves for air to circulate.
Tie stems together very tightly, as stems will shrink as they dry. Use string or rubber bands. Hang the bunch upside down in a warm, dry place, with circulation, and out of direct sunlight. It may take up to 2 weeks for herbs to dry, depending on humidity. Leaves will be brittle and crumbly when completely dried. Drying herbs slowly will help them to retain their color, and also the volatile oils contained in the herbs that give them each its unique flavor and aroma. The ideal temperature for air drying herbs is 100 degrees. A well-ventilated attic is an ideal place to dry herbs. In cooler temperatures, the herbs will take more time to dry.
Herbs can also be air-dried on screens, which is a good method for drying herbs that have stems too short to be gathered into a bunch, or for loose leaves. Turn leaves frequently to insure thorough, even drying of the herbs.
Flower-press Drying:
This method takes up less space than air-drying by hanging or on a screen.
ou can use a purchased flower-press, or make your own by using a stack of heavy books. Arrange the herbs in a singe layer between sheets of paper towel. Place several thickness' of newspaper between the layers (for example: newspaper-paper towel-herbs-paper towel-newspaper-paper towel-herbs-paper towel-newspaper, etc.)
Pressed herbs will take longer to dry--up to 6 weeks, maybe longer. They will not need to be checked or turned as often. They also will dry flat rather than retaining their natural shape. When dry, crumble leaves into an airtight container for storage.
Storing Dried Herbs:
When completely dried, remove leaves from the stems. The herbs can then be stored in airtight containers, such as jars. Store in a cool, dark, dry place for up to one year.
Hint: Be sure to store in containers as soon as possible after drying.... I tried drying some basil in the dehydrator and tur